Thursday, November 1, 2007

Further ruminations on the mounatin and its ramifications




Above is a deceivingly serene shot of Daniela in the midst of our first day anti-acclimitized slog taken at around 7PM (after 8 hours and 9,000 feet of elevation gain). The mountain was just starting to sock in and the rain beginning to fall. Below is a more representative shot of me and my dismal state of mind

Now it's been a couple of solidly relaxing and gastrointestinally comfortable days back in Nanyuki town and my demeanor is notably less agitated. In fact, I'd say I've almost let it all go; the mourning for the dead dream, the self recrminations, and the lingering angst toward everyone involved in the ill fated mission. I think I neglected to mention that a further complication to the climbing trip was the scambled state of my bowels which crept up on me the day before we left. This was obviously the result of my initial openness to African street foods and generally eating any old fried food, octopus, bbq beef, and the like.

But alas I have returned to my slightly more discerning and happy self. One big push that sent back toward the happy belly state was yesterday's lunch. Before the safari, Mr Wa, Daniela, and I drove about 15 minutes out of Nayuki to dine at the Trout Tree restaurant. This place is named as such because (1) it is a trout hatchery and (2) it is a restaurant built in a tree. The tree is a 125 year old fig tree that is the centerpiece of the entire operation of 15 some odd trout pools all gravity fed and operating smoohtly. Colobus Monkeys swing through the trees above while happy eaters enjoy various delicacies made of the most delicious trout I have ever tasted. And I'm not just saying that. Needless to say, we all left feeling entirely satiated. The special and unique feeling that Daniela pointed out was that we actually felt full and good as opposed to full and sick. In the photo below, Peter Wa and Daniela stand contentedly in the entranceway to the treehouse restaurant. Two trout ponds are swirling below and monkeys are swinging in the trees to the right.


Right now, everything is settling. Daniela is leaving to go back to Tanzania tomorrow morning and I am heading out to stay with a Masai family in their "boma." This the circlular aray of round thathced huts in which one man houses his several wives. Yup I'm going to live with one of the wives for the night. Get your mind out of the gutter -- this is strictly a cross cultural experience and besides Daniela tells me most likely she'll be closer in age to my grandma. In the boma at night also lives the young cows and goats. We all, humans and livestock, sleep in one bed, or at least that's the impression I've been given. Alas, there's only one way to find out what the actual reality will be. After I get back on Saturday morning, I'll take the matata bus to Isiolo and start the long haul north to Ethiopia. And just like that, another phase of this journey will have begun at the very moment that the current one becomes comfortable and deeply appreciated.

5 comments:

Belle said...

Your communications are the most exciting things going on here these days. I can't wait to read them and talk about them!

Susan said...

Wow! Even Grandma has gotten into the act here. I'm impressed.

Sam, enjoy your visit with the Masai. Did I ever tell you about the Chinese village we visited where each woman had several men. I prefer that to the Masai approach.

Unknown said...

Well, dear Sam, it seems that my grand travel karma has greatly deteriorated since we parted ways at 4am this morning. I guess that means that you are the key to international border crossings. After shelling out $50 bucks to buy ALL of the matatu seats in the first vehicle departing Nanyuki, my driver drove like a bat out of hell only to arrive SIX MINUTES AFTER 8AM in Nairobi...and...as feared, darling Bobby refused to wait for me!!!! I WATCHED THE SHUTTLE PULL AWAY WITHOUT ME! And so the next best option was a chicken bus full of Rwandan refugees and bottles of mysterious substances. Yes - they happily accepted my mzungu self so that YOUR bags could serve as the faux-cover at customs. Sam, I was in a bus transporting illegal drugs!!! And so - after 3 hours of sketch-er-ama bribery at the Namanga border...we pulled through unscathed. Needless to say, I don't think a smile crossed my face until 3pm when I got the following text from Peter Wa:

"Sam is already with the Morans (Maasai term for Warriors) having a blast.I just left him herding cows with a spear in hand. I think he is enjoying it."

The mere vision of you cloaked in a red woolen Maasai blanket and adorned with beads and spears altered my perma-scowl. Thanks! Your company is missed already. Be safe...and keep the Tinidizole in your front pocket!

Michael said...

have fun on the next part of your journey!...Michael

Susan said...

Here's an update from Sam:
Please pass the word along: Blog readers may have to wait an indefinite period for the next posting as I have yet to be able to access blogger at any computer terminal in Ethiopia. Not sure why but most likely it's due to the speed of connections here, which is I swear worse than it was 7 years ago in Latin America!! In the meantime I'm writing postings and saving them for later uploads. Hopefully I'll find a broad band spot tomorrow and it'll work. Til then, happy Friday in the USA.