Zanzibar and Beyond

(Africa House Hotel, Stone Town Zanzibar)

I took the fast ferry on Friday afternoon from Dar to the west coast of Zanzibar, and returned this morning sun soaked and vastly relaxed. If you think that sounds an awful lot like a weekend in Nantucket, you wouldn’t be the only one. Ironic as it seems, my life in Tanzania has been thus far one of luxury and ease. Or perhaps this is not ironic at all when we think of the manipulating of the continent that has been and continues to be carried out by people of my historical lineage.

I began to consider my unavoidable and not entirely unpleasant predicament, as I watched the sun set sitting atop the terrace of the former “British Club” in Zanzibar’s Stone Town. This spot is now a famous and four-star hotel called the Africa House, where we happened to stay all weekend (gratis but that's another story entirely). Friday evening, after three hours of conversation (and whiskey) with the owner on history, politics, and the economic protocols of "doing business" in Africa, I had had my initiation. All at once it seemed, I was forced to confront every stereotype I held regarding tourism and the influence of the foreigner in Africa. As tempting as it was, I could not pass judgement on any of the countless white tourists and foreign business people sitting with us on the sunset terrace. Obviously I would put myself in a terribly awkward, and dishonest head space if I were to walk on around Africa thinking I was anything different or special.

For now I'll avoid the sociological commentary and try to focus on the beauty of the place and the brilliant experience I was so so lucky enough to have.

As reputation has it, Zanzibar is the embodiment of tropical paradise. At least it certainly was for me on the physical level, with its white powder beaches, lush forest, diverse agriculture, and ultra relaxed, friendly people who make the place what it is. The island is culturally and historically distinct from the main land country, as almost everyone is and has been Muslim with separate ruling sultanates for generations before the arrival of the German and British imperialists. Still today, it feels, and functions much like a separate country. There are prayer calls audible on every street, most women are wearing some type of traditional head covering, and the food is definitively Indian. But for all that is overwhelmingly Muslim, the place feels peacefully nonsecular and more akin to a laid back island culture than any other I have witnessed.

On Saturday morning, our plan was to escape Stone Town for one of the typical touristy outings, usually including some mix of historical sites, a spice farm tour, and visits to the Red Colobus monkey preserve or other forest parks. We considered getting a taxi to drive us around and then Daniela had the brilliant idea of renting a Vespa for a littel more freedom and open air cruising. Right after that moment of epiphany, the first person we flagged down on a scooter happened to be a tough looking dude named Ali, nicknamed "Vandam" because of his two Tanzanian national kickboxing titles. No joke. Turned out Vandam was the most genuinely nice person we could've found and so safety conscious on the motos he would have made all our moms proud.

So after some easy negotiations (Daniela speaks fluent Swahili) we hopped on two speedy Vespas and cruised north up the West coast of the island. Daniela on the back with me and her friend Wendy on the back with Vandam. All in all, the spontaneous plan worked like magic. Vandam led us smoothly to a small spice farm, to which we arrived literally seconds before sheets of torrential rain came puring from the sky for twenty minutes. We were then led through the misty sun streaked pathes of the farm by a charismatic 16 year old, who pointed out at least 30 varieties of food and spices most of which we sampled off the vine. Next we cruised by some ruins of a some Sultan's palace which very ruined and not so engaging for lack of sufficient explanation. Next door we stumbled upon a traditional dhow boat building yard on the tidal flats. Meeting the boat builders and fisherman was by far the most interesting part of the day for me. We finished up with a snack of french fry omelets (chips myai) and Kilimanjaro beer at an adjacent bar and then zoomed back to town for yet another gourmet meal at the hotel restaurant. (ridiculous!)

Sunday we called up Vandam and again rented a Vespa, this time headed out to the remote and rural east coast of the Island. After an hour and half of zipping along in the lush tropical air, I was a bit sunburned but elated to have reached the famed white sand beaches. We were in the town of Padjwe, off the beaten track with the exception of one fancy beach resort at the far end. We parked the bikes at the house of Vandam's friend and former fight promoter. Then we walked down the beach about a kilometer to a local bar and sat in chairs and read while Daniela jogged endless miles down the perfectly compacted sand.

At a certain point, a soccer ball appeared and a high intensity pickup game ensued. I was eager for some energy building activity and a means to interact with people independent of having to speak Swahili. Two hours later, I was more sunburned but thoroughly satisfied and psyched. Those who've played with me know my enthusiasm and hustle definitely gets the best of me, but eventually I calmed down a bit, focused, and managed to score two goals!


Finished up the day by stretching my body in the deliciously tepid low tide pools of the Indian ocean. Then quickly the sun began to set, so we proceeded back to the motos to find a snack before the long cruise back to Stone Town.

The weekend's indulgences concluded with a four course Indian meal, throughout which the owner tried to impress us with his DJing skills, playing an odd mix of Frank Sinatra, Nora Jones, classical ragas, and not so classical sitar disco. I woke up this morning with a bit of a belly ache and waited in the blazing sun for the 10:00 ferry back to Dar, however reluctantly.

Tomorrow we'll take the 6AM bus to Arusha, Tanzania. There we'll spend the afternoon and evening provisioning and packing for 7-10 days on Mt Kenya. By Wednesday evening we will hopefully be at the wilderness gate of Mt Kenya National Park and on our way to the first of three approach camps before the climbing begins. Can't wait! Pray for sun, at least some!